After the filler was dry and sanded down, I applied several coats of Kilz primer to all of the blue surfaces. This included the holes for the lock bar, which I removed. I filled all of the major holes as best I could with Plastic Wood (a filler product). Wear a face mask or you'll be sneezing Donkey Kong blue for the next three days. If that's not possible, cover EVERYTHING within a 30-foot radius with plastic before you begin. I sanded inside (it was raining on the day I painted) and covered the entire garage-and the entire inner surface of my unprotected respiratory system-with blue paint dust. If you're stupid like me, you probably think that a power sander that has a dust catcher doesn't generate much dust. Here's another tip for you would-be restorers out there.
Sigh.Īs with my Donkey Kong project, I decided to sand the cabinet rather than stripping the old paint off. in a blue cabinet that had to be painted orange. Ironically, I built my Donkey Kong in an orange cabinet that had to be painted blue and my Mario Bros. But, because I am a glutton for punishment, I decided that my Mario needed to be Donkey Kong Junior orange.
Blue-the color of this particular cabinet-would have been perfectly acceptable. machines came in a variety of colors (depending on the color of the converted machine). Were built into existing cabinets, conversion Mario Bros. Amidst the debris in the bottom of the game, I found $18.80 in change! That brought the total cost of the cabinet down to $6.20! What a bargain! As is always the case when I take something apart, I labeled all of the wires and stored all screws and bolts in labeled bags so I could put everything back the way I found it.Īs gross as the cleaning process was, it turned out to be pretty rewarding. You could barely see the bottom of for all the dust and debris. The pictures show how dirty the outside of the cabinet was, but that didn't hold a candle to the inside. I knew from the start that it would have to be replaced. It snapped off in brittle pieces with very little effort. T-Molding: The t-molding on this game was absolutely shredded. This door had some rust on it, and the coin mechs were inoperative and kind of beat up. Once removed, I also took off all of the hardware-coin mechanisms, etc.-so that the coin door and frame could be repainted. Removing this piece is a knuckle-busting chore. You also need a metric socket set or nut driver, since the nuts are decidedly not a standard size. Short of removing all of the bracing inside the cabinet, there is no easy way to get to the bottom bolts on a Nintendo coin door. This task is easier described than performed.
The nuts must be loosened and removed from the inside. Coin Door: The coin door is secured to the cabinet by about a dozen bolts along the top, bottom, and sides of its frame.
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